Leather types for jackets: cowhide, lambskin, goat, suede and PU compared

Cowhide, sheep, goat, buffalo: which hide for which jacket

The animal decides most of what a leather jacket will be: its weight, how it drapes, how it ages and how much abrasion it takes. There is no single right answer — only the right hide for the silhouette and the use you have in mind.

• Cowhide — thick, dense and firm. It holds structure, breaks in over time and resists abrasion, which is why it dominates biker jackets and motorcycle gear. The trade-off is weight and a stiffer feel when new.
• Sheep and lamb nappa — soft, light, close-grained leather with a fluid drape. It suits fashion jackets, blazers, trousers and leather hoodies. It is less abrasion-resistant than cowhide and shows scuffs more readily.
• Goat — light but tougher than sheep for its weight, with a visible pebbled grain. Common for gloves and riding gear, and as goat suede for fashion jackets.
• Buffalo — similar in weight to cowhide, with a coarser, more pronounced grain and a rugged look. It is less common in fashion jackets; if you want it, state it in the RFQ and availability is confirmed before quoting.

Full-grain, top-grain, corrected grain and split — and suede vs nubuck

A hide is split into layers. The outer layer carries the grain — the dense surface that gives leather its strength and character. The grade describes what has been done to that surface:

• Full-grain — the grain surface left intact, natural marks included. The strongest and most breathable layer, and the one that develops a patina.
• Top-grain — the grain layer, lightly buffed to even out surface marks. Smoother and more uniform, slightly less character. Usage varies, so ask the supplier exactly what is meant.
• Corrected grain — heavily buffed, then pigmented and often embossed with an artificial grain pattern. Uniform and hard-wearing on the surface, but it does not age like full-grain.
• Split — the lower layer left after the grain is removed. Used for split suede, or coated to imitate a grain surface. Weaker than grain leather of the same thickness.
• Suede vs nubuck — both have a soft, velvety nap. Suede is the flesh side or a split, brushed up; nubuck is grain leather sanded on the outside. Nubuck is finer and stronger; suede has a longer, softer nap and is more forgiving to cut.

Thickness: fashion leather vs motorcycle leather

Leather thickness is measured in millimetres and is never perfectly even — it varies across a single hide, so specifications are given as a range. As general industry figures, fashion jacket leathers typically sit around 0.6–1.2 mm, with lamb and sheep nappa at the thinner end. Leather for motorcycle riding gear is typically heavier, often around 1.2–1.5 mm cowhide or goat.

For LOMERAQ leather jackets, the ranges stated on the product page are cowhide 1.1–1.3 mm and sheep nappa 0.8–1.0 mm. For riding jackets and motorbike suits, leather thickness is agreed per program and stated in the quote. Thickness alone does not make a garment protective: abrasion performance depends on the hide, the tannage, the seams and the armour, and any protective standard your market requires is confirmed per RFQ, never assumed.

Finishes: aniline, semi-aniline, waxed and distressed

The finish decides how the leather looks on day one and how it changes after a year of wear.

• Aniline — dyed through with soluble dyes and little or no surface coating. The most natural look and softest hand; every scar and growth mark shows, and it marks and stains more easily.
• Semi-aniline — aniline-dyed with a light pigmented top coat. More even colour and some protection, while keeping most of the natural feel.
• Waxed — finished with wax or oil, often with a 'pull-up' effect: the colour lightens where the leather is bent or stretched. It scuffs, but scuffs can be rubbed back.
• Distressed — rubbed, tumbled or two-tone finished for a worn, vintage look. Variation between jackets is part of the effect, so approve it on a sample.

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PU vs genuine leather: an honest comparison

PU leather is a polyurethane coating on a textile backing. It is produced on rolls, so colour and thickness are uniform, there is no hide grading, cutting yield is predictable and material cost is usually lower. It is also the option for an animal-free collection.

Genuine leather breathes better, moulds to the wearer, can be repaired and conditioned, and ages rather than wears out. PU does not develop a patina, and its coating can crack or peel over time, depending on its quality. Neither is automatically the more sustainable choice, and we make no environmental claims for either. Many brands run both: genuine leather for the main line, PU for an entry price point. Both can be quoted in one RFQ.

Colour, dye lots, natural marks and care

Leather is a natural material. Hides take dye differently, and each carries its own scars, insect bites and growth lines. Even within one dye lot, shade varies from hide to hide, and a repeat order can differ slightly from the first. At LOMERAQ, hides are graded and shade-sorted before cutting, so the panels of each jacket come from matched hides, and remaining natural variation is shown on the approved sample. Custom-coloured leather may carry a tannery minimum, which is stated in the quote.

Care advice for your hangtags or product pages: hang leather on a broad hanger, away from direct heat; let wet leather dry naturally at room temperature; condition smooth leather occasionally; brush suede and treat it with a water-repellent spray; never store leather in a sealed plastic bag; send heavy stains to a leather specialist. PU only needs wiping with a damp cloth and keeping away from heat.

How to specify leather in your RFQ

A clear leather specification saves a sample round. Include:

1. Animal and type — cowhide, sheep or lamb nappa, goat, buffalo, suede, or PU.
2. Grade — full-grain, top-grain, corrected grain or split.
3. Thickness range in millimetres, or 'factory to advise' for the silhouette.
4. Finish — aniline, semi-aniline, waxed or distressed — and the hand feel you want (soft, firm, dry, waxy).
5. Colour reference — a physical swatch or reference garment beats a screen colour for leather.
6. Intended use — fashion or riding; for riding gear, the protective standard your market requires, if any.
7. Lining, hardware and any tannage requirement, such as vegetable-tanned or chrome-free, with the documentation you need.
8. Quantity — the minimum is 25 units per order, split across sizes. Leather is cut hide by hide, so per-unit cost reflects hide grading and cutting yield; leather type, finish and colour are confirmed during the RFQ.