Fleece vs French terry: brushed back or loopback for hoodies and sweatshirts

The short answer

Fleece and French terry start as the same kind of knit: a smooth jersey face with extra yarn looped on the back. The difference is what happens to those loops. On French terry they are left as loops — hence 'loopback'. On fleece they are brushed, which tears the loops open and raises the fibres into a soft, lofted pile — hence 'brushed back'.

That one finishing step changes warmth, hand feel, pilling, dyeing and how the garment ages. If you want warmth and softness, choose brushed fleece. If you want structure, breathability and a cleaner washed look, choose French terry.

How each fabric is knitted

Both fabrics are usually knitted on circular machines as a backed jersey: a face yarn forms the outside and a heavier, softer back yarn is laid in to form loops on the reverse.

For French terry, the fabric is scoured, dyed and finished with the loops intact. For fleece, the back passes through brushing rollers covered in fine wire that pull and break the loops. The face of both fabrics looks the same from the outside; you tell them apart by turning the garment inside out.

Feel and warmth

Brushed fleece is soft and fuzzy on the inside. The raised pile traps air, so at the same weight fleece feels warmer and more insulating than terry. The trade-off is that it breathes less and can feel heavy in heated rooms or during exercise.

French terry feels drier and smoother against the skin, with a slightly textured, towel-like back. Air moves through the open loops, so it suits layering, transitional seasons and garments worn indoors. It also holds a crisper, more structured shape.

Weights commonly used

As general industry practice, French terry for tops is commonly used from around 240 to 400 GSM, and fleece from around 280 to 450 GSM and above, with the lighter end for layering pieces and the heavier end for boxy streetwear hoodies. Weight alone does not tell you the hand: a 380 GSM terry and a 380 GSM fleece are different garments at the same number.

LOMERAQ produces hoodies in both brushed fleece and loopback French terry from 280 to 450 GSM. Tracksuits are produced in fleece (320–400 GSM), French terry or polyester tricot. The available weights for a given colour and composition are confirmed during the RFQ.

Shrinkage and pilling

Both fabrics are cotton-rich knits and both shrink if the fabric is not pre-shrunk or compacted; the higher the cotton content, the more shrinkage to control. Shrinkage belongs to the fabric lot, not the fabric type, so measure it with a wash test on the production fabric.

Pilling behaves differently. Brushing loosens fibres, so fleece sheds lint in the first washes and the inside can pill with wear. In cotton/polyester fleece the polyester fibres are strong enough to hold the pills on the surface instead of letting them break off, so blends often look pilled sooner. French terry has no raised pile, so it pills less inside, but the open loops can snag on jewellery, Velcro and zips.

Garment dyeing and washes

Garment dyeing — dyeing the sewn garment instead of the fabric — works best on 100 percent cotton, because the reactive dyes typically used for cotton do not colour polyester; on a blend, the polyester stays pale and the result reads as heathered or uneven.

French terry is the more common choice for garment-dyed and vintage-washed pieces: the loopback survives the wash cycle well and the fabric keeps its structure. Brushed fleece can be garment dyed, but the pile may flatten or mat during the process, so test it on a sample first. Garment-dyed colours are produced in batches, which affects minimums and timing; both are stated in the quote.

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Print and embroidery

Because the face of both fabrics is the same jersey, screen printing, puff print and high-density print behave much the same on fleece and terry. Heavier, denser fabric gives a more stable print surface. On polyester-rich blends, ask about dye migration, where dye from the fabric bleeds into a light ink; it is tested on the production fabric, not assumed.

Embroidery works on both with a backing stabiliser and a sensible stitch count. On fleece the backing is hidden by the pile; on terry it sits against the loops and is more visible inside, so specify a soft or cut-away backing if the inside matters. At LOMERAQ, decoration runs at vetted partner units, with proofing and sample approval managed in-house.

Which to pick by garment

• Hoodies: brushed fleece for warm, soft autumn and winter hoodies; heavyweight French terry for structured, garment-dyed or year-round streetwear hoodies.
• Crewneck sweatshirts: French terry is the classic choice for a clean, flat look and layering; fleece if warmth is the selling point.
• Joggers: French terry is lighter-feeling and breathes better for everyday and athleisure wear; fleece joggers suit lounge and cold-weather ranges.
• Tracksuits: fleece for warmth and a soft matched set; French terry for a lighter, more structured set. Cut jacket and pant from the same fabric lot to keep the shade matched.

Cotton or cotton/poly blend

100 percent cotton gives the densest, most natural hand and is the only reliable route to an even garment dye, but it shrinks the most. Cotton/polyester blends such as 80/20 or 60/40 are more dimensionally stable, dry faster and keep their colour well in fabric-dyed programs, at the cost of some softness and a higher tendency to pill.

How to specify it in an RFQ

Name the construction, not just 'cotton hoodie'. A line such as '400 GSM, 100% cotton loopback French terry, pre-shrunk, garment dyed' or '350 GSM, 80/20 cotton/polyester brushed fleece, fabric dyed to Pantone reference' gives the factory something it can source and quote.

1. Fabric type: brushed-back fleece or loopback French terry.
2. Weight in GSM and composition.
3. Dye route: fabric dyed to a Pantone reference, or garment dyed or washed.
4. Shrinkage expectation: pre-shrunk or compacted fabric, and whether a wash test is required on the production lot.
5. Rib for cuffs, hem and collar, with or without elastane.
6. Decoration method, placement and size for each logo.
7. Quantity per colour and size.

Next step

If you are undecided, ask for swatches of both fabrics at the same weight. LOMERAQ manufactures fleece and French terry hoodies, sweatshirts and tracksuits from 25 units per order, cut and sewn in Sialkot, Pakistan. Send your specification or a reference garment, and a technical reviewer replies with fabric options and the quotation.